Winterizing a lawnmower is frequently disregarded, and then many are surprised when it won't start after sitting for months. This is because a variety of issues might arise while the machine is idle. Rust and convulsions are caused by dirt and debris getting into connections and hoses. The carburettor and engine can be damaged by old fuel.
The mower will be appropriately stored and ready to use as soon as the grass begins to grow next season if a few short and easy duties are completed at the end of the mowing season. Nothing here necessitates a high level of talent, and only a few tools are required. Continue reading to find out how to winterize a lawnmower and avoid complications.
Today we have prepared a list of nine tips that every homeowner should remember before winterizing their lawnmower. They are
Always put your safety first. When a gas lawn mower isn't running, it's not uncommon for it to cough and sputter. It may just revolve the blade once or twice, but if a hand gets in the way, it might cause a terrible accident. Similar problems can occur if the power button on a corded or cordless lawn mower is mistakenly depressed.
Even though such instances are uncommon, they are nevertheless harmful. Fingers can be misplaced. Remove the power supply before beginning any cleaning or maintenance.
A gas mower entails removing the spark plug cord or, better yet, the old spark plug entirely. Replace it with a new one once all of the tasks have been accomplished. Remove the battery or unhook the power cord on electric lawnmowers.
Many individuals are unaware that gasoline deteriorates with time. Three to six months is a typical useful life. When it gets heated, like in the gas tank of a lawnmower on a hot day, the decomposition process accelerates. Gasoline breaks down into sticky compounds that can block the carburetor, exhaust port, and muffler as it ages. Peroxides are also produced, which damage rubber seals.
One of the most critical tasks while storing a lawnmower for the winter is to either empty the gasoline or apply a chemical stabilizer (available on Amazon). Most lawn mowers are compatible with regular gasoline and gasoline with two-stroke oil added, but it's always a good idea to double-check the lawn mower's specifications.
This step isn't essential if you have a two-stroke lawnmower since the lubricating oil is combined with the fuel and burns along with it. A second oil tank will be there if you have a giant four-stroke mower or lawn tractor.
Motor oil is a remarkably complicated substance that can endure temperature and pressure extremes. However, while it cools and protects the motor, it accumulates tiny dirt particles. Because these particles can cause wear as they collect, the oil must be changed regularly.
Draining oil from lawnmower tanks is a straightforward process that involves removing a drain bolt, collecting the old oil (and properly disposing of it), refitting the bolt, and replacing it with oil of the manufacturer's specified grade. It's a chore that should be completed every 50 working hours. It's usually done amid the season and then again when the lawnmower is winterized towards the end.
Depending on the kind of mower, there may be one or two filters—one for the fuel line and one for the oil tank on four-stroke mowers.
Fuel filters are tiny cylinder devices that are frequently constructed of white plastic. They are designed to fit the fuel line between the gas tank and the carburetor and remove small dirt particles from the gasoline. Over time, the accumulated debris might obstruct flow and deplete the motor's fuel supply. They're kept in place by simple clips that may be opened with regular pliers. Before you do so, make sure the petrol in the tank is turned off.
Oil filters do the same thing as gasoline filters in terms of removing debris. They're spherical metal devices that attach to the motor's side or underbelly. They may typically be removed by turning them counterclockwise with your hand. It's also simple to replace.
So far, most of the lawnmower winter storage stages have been focused on gas-powered mowers. We now offer a variety of occupations that apply to people of various sorts. Sharpening the mower blade is the first step.
Although a dull blade appears to cut, it mashes grass strands. This damage slows development, exposes the grass to pathogens, and results in unattractive brown areas. A sharp blade cuts neatly and aids in the maintenance of a healthy lawn.
Sharpening may be done with or without the blade on the mower. You may use a basic hand file, although rotary equipment with a grinding attachment is also standard. Sharpen the mower on its side rather than upside down to prevent metal filings from falling into the shaft that powers the blade.
Cleaning the deck of a lawnmower after each usage is the best policy. It's a lot simpler to get rid of moist stuff than to get rid of dry grass or dirt. Cleaning prevents moisture from damaging the finish and causing rust if the deck is constructed of metal.
When winterizing a lawnmower, it's a good idea to wipe the deck thoroughly and inspect it for damage. Please make sure the mower is steady and won't tip over by leaning it on its side. With riding mowers, use wheel ramps and chock the wheels.
Jacks should never be used alone since they can tumble over. Use an all-purpose cleaner and a stiff nylon brush with a pressure washer or a garden hose to clean.
Cleaning and lubricating the moving components involve two steps. The lubricating recommendations in your owner's handbook should always be followed to extend the life of your equipment.
Dirt may become lodged in various places on mowers, causing damage and the beginnings of corrosion. The standard positions are the wheels and axles. Another section is the levers that control speed or increase and reduce the deck height.
There's a connection that can catch grit if the handle folds for storage. These may not look like significant issues at first, but they begin to stick or irritate with time and become a nuisance.
Clean the equipment well before applying a tiny amount of light machine oil. A three-in-one oil (available on Amazon) is standard. Silicon sprays, like WD-40, are lovely for loosening tight nuts and bolts, but they're not the ideal lubricant for this job since they get sticky and retain dirt.
Throttle cables can kink and wear out over time. They generally brush up against some guide. Rust will begin to form after they have rubbed through the protective covering. Replace the directory if it is worn. It's a quick and straightforward job that doesn't cost much.
If the throttle cable has begun to tear, it should be replaced as well because the tiny wires that make up the cable will inevitably stab you in the finger if they come free. It wasn't a significant injury, but it was certainly unpleasant.
Check the cable outer on electric mowers for any signs of damage. It should be replaced if it has cracks or splits. Short circuits caused by exposed wires might trip breakers or stop the lawnmower from operating.
There's also the risk of electric shock, which may be lethal. All-electric garden equipment should be plugged into an outlet with a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) installed as a safety measure.
The battery must be removed before a riding mower, or cordless type can be winterized. This is due to two factors.
If left connected, both ordinary 12-volt car batteries and lithium-ion kinds eventually deplete. Second, batteries lose power in cold weather; therefore, they must be stored at a temperature above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you keep your lawnmower somewhere where it will freeze, the battery should be placed somewhere else.
It may be time to contemplate how to store grass boxes throughout the winter while winterizing the lawnmower. Canvas versions are excellent winter homes for rats (who would most likely chew them to smithereens) and snakes, keeping them out of animal reach.